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Castilla La Mancha:
land of casttles
Castilla-La Mancha, located at the very center of the Iberian peninsula,
is dominated by an extense tableland, although there are mountainous
landscapes too.
Of major interest to the visitor are of course the monumental cities and
towns of great historical importance, like Toledo, the enchanting
Cuenca and Albacete, but one should take as well several
interesting alternative routes into consideration, among them: Ruta
de los Pueblos Negros ("Route of the Black Villages"), having
their name from the use of slate in their traditional architecture, the
"Route of the Saffron Fields", "Route of the Castles", and
the "Route of Don Quijote", named after Cervante's
legendary "Man from La Mancha". Still today you will see many of
those characteristical windmills Don Quijote was fighting with in
all the land.
Traditional gastronomy is simple but tasteful, with stews, game,
sausages and the famous Manchego cheese. The region's excellent
wines are a perfect match.
Artisany is varied, from ceramics and embroiderings to the famous
Swords of Toledo and Knives of Albacete.
The Cities:
Toledo
The former capital of Spain is certainly one of the country's
architectonical treasures, with magnificent monuments specially from
Moorish, Mudejar, Gothic and Renaissance periods. Toledo was also the
hometown of the great painter El Greco.
Cuenca
This enchanting medieval city, declared Patrimony of Humanity by
UNESCO, is surrounded by landscapes of incredible beauty. Among the
town's most remarkable sights are the famous "Hanging Houses",
the Gothic cathedral and the Museum of Abstract Art. In its surroundings
there are several fantastic natural preserves, among them Ciudad
Encantada, the "enchanted city", where erosion has created
most bizarre forms.
Guadalajara
Major attractions are the Mudejar style church Santa Maria la
Mayor, the 15th century palace Duque del Infantado, the
Moorish town-walls and bridge over Henares river, from 10th
century. In the province of Guadalajara the medieval town
Siguenza, with its great fortress and
cathedral, is worth a visit.
Ciudad Real
This city is marked by the history of Don Quijote who is said to
have fought against the windmills at the nearby Campo de Criptana.
The nearby Lagunas de Ruidera, consisting of 17 lagoons, offer
splendid landscapes.
Albacete
A modern and functional city, located at the typical plains of La
Mancha. It is known for its knife-making industry.
Toledo: Like
a Travel through History
Toledo is one of the most important centers
of european medieval history. The first one to report about it was Roman
author Titus Livius, who describes it as a "small fortificated town",
and fortification has always been an important parameter in its history,
still evident to today's tourist for the monumental walls around, and
the "Swords of Toledo" gave to its steel-production world-wide fame. It
was capital of Spain from the Gothic epoch until 1560, fact that
explains its really impressive medieval architecture. Walking through
its streets one feels like having stepped back into the Middle-Ages, but
in the best sense of it, and perhaps you will search your pockets for a
few gold-ducats to buy some of Toledo's fine artisany or just to enjoy
of its highly recommandable cuisine.
Being that close to Madrid, of course it is an ideal place to visit if
you are in Spain's actual capital.
Toledo: Sightseeing
and excursions
Toledo, having been declared National Monument by the Spanish
state, seems to be one large museum. Hardly another town is so well
conserved in its historical style.
The best way to explore Toledo certainly is to have a long walk through
it and look at the buildings of various epochs:
- The Epoch of Romans
- Titus Livius
described the Roman "Toletum" as a small fortificated
settlement. But already then it had great strategical importance. The
Amphitheater and an aqueductus are conserved of that
time.
- The Epoch of Goths
- When the Goths conquered Spain in 6th
century, they made Toledo capital of their empire. A remind of this
epoch is the Fortress of San Servando.
- The Epoch of Moors
- Tolaitola,
as the Moors called Toledo, was one of the most important northern-spanish
towns. There are two Mosques and three town-gates left.
The Mosque Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, of 10th
century, is extraordinarily well-conserved. Its construction, with
nine cupolas raising over four Gothic colums, certainly shows
influences of the great Mosque of Cordoba.
The town-gate Vieja Puerta de la Bisagra, built during 12th
and 13th century, is the most impressive rest of the
Moorish fortifications
Spaniards had religious freedom during the Moorish occupation, so also
Christians (Mozarabes) built their churches: San Sebastián
and Santa Eulalia were made during that time, though both were
modified lateron.
- The Epoch of the Reconquest
- After conquering Toledo in 1085,
Alfons VI made the town capital of his empire. As a consequence
the importance of the town was growing rapidly and arrivede to its
climax in late 15th and early 16th century. The
Escuela de Traductores de Toledo (School of Translators of
Toledo) cultivated as well classical as oriental knowledge and
exported it from here to the occidental world.
During the Moorish dominance the Christians had developed an
architectonic style of their own, though clearly influenced by Arabian
aesthetics. In this so-called Mudejar-style they built now
several churches that are well worth a visit: Santiago del Arrabal,
Cristo de la Vega, San Vicente, San Miguel,
San Román and Santo Tomé. (In the latter is exposed one of
El Greco's most famous paintings, "The Funeral of Count
Orgaz".)
The two synagogues conserved in Toledo, Sinagoga de
Santa Maria la Blanca and Sinagoga de El
Tránsito, are in Mudejar style as well. The latter, built
by Samuel Ha Leví, became a temple of Christian Alcantara
Order after the banishing of Jews in late 15th century.
The Cathedral, built between 1226 and 1492,
with massive lines and decorations in Mudejar style is
certainly the most interesting gothic building in town. You may visit
its fantastic collection of paintings, including works of El Greco,
Goya and Van Dyck in its vestry, and the treasury with the
famous 16th century monstrance of Juan de Arfe,
which is part and parcel of the Corpus Christi procession.
The mighty Bridge of Saint Martin, over
Tajo river, with a tower at each end, is of gothic style as
well.
The church Iglesia de San Juan de los Reyes and its
Monastery were built in 15th century for the Spanish
kings to be buried there. The claustrum is of extraordinary
beauty.
- After 15th Century
- In 1560, under the government of
King Philip II, Madrid replaced Toledo as capital of Spain. The
town anyhow remained important, specially for the Catholic Church
which held there no fewer than 18 counciles.
The old Hospital of Santa Cruz, founded in late 16th
century by Cardenal Mendoza, serves today as Museum of Arts
and Archaeology. Outstanding from the architectonical point of
view are the staircase of Covarrubias, the Plateresque
facade and the courtyard.
Important Renaissance buildings are the churches Santo Domingo el
Antiguo and San José, and the town-gate Puerta Nueva de
la Bisagra.
Of Baroque epoch are the church San Juan de los Jesuitas and,
of course, the works of Toledo's most famous painter, El Greco:
many of them are exposed in the house where he was living, Casa y
Museo del Greco.
Finally, behind the Arco de la Sangre, an arch well known to
all who read Cervantes' Don Quijote, we find the town's
landmark, the Alcazar.
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- La Mancha
This region, made famous by Cervantes in his "Don Quijote",
presents itself exactly as the visitor expects.
In Illescas, located half on the way
between Toledo and Madrid (at 35 km from each), we find traces of a
very old history, from paleolithic to middle-ages.
The most important monuments are: the Hospital Nuestra Señora de
La Caridad, founded by Cardenal Cisneros. In its
interior there are exposed 5 paintings of El Greco; the church
Iglesia de Santa Maria, of 13th and 14th
century, with its well-known tower called Giraldilla de Sagra;
the church Iglesia de las Terciarias, with its
Puerta de Ugena, an 11th century Arabian door.
Esquivias was the home-town of
Cervantes. Ocaña is worth a visit
because of its Roman remains, its elegant Renaissance palace and its
beautiful main square, Plaza Mayor, of 18th century.
Tembleque, very typical in its regional style,
offers an original Plaza Mayor, with beautiful galleries, and a
church in Renaissance style.
In Quintanar de la Orden you will
find loads of those windmills that La Mancha is famous for.
El Toboso is the hometown of Doña
Dulcinea, figure of Cervantes' Don Quijote.
Being dominated by its old fortress and, of course, numerous windmills,
Consuegra has to offer great
buildings which confirm its historical importance: Convento de
las Carmelitas, the churches Los Dolores ,
San Juan, La Veracruz and Santa Maria,
not to forget about the Roman ruins.
Orgaz, of manorial character, has a large
Plaza Mayor as well as an old Roman bridge.
- The Route of the Castles
The province of Toledo has been of great importance during the middle-ages,
fact being evident still today by the large number of old castles you
can find in this region. To visit the most important of them, start
your journey in Guadamur, with one of the
most beautiful medieval fortresses of all Spain.
Barciense has a gothic castle, and in
Torrijos, the old residential town of
Pedro I. the Cruel you will see the Colegiata
with its extraordinary plateresque portal.
The castle of Maqueda, of 15th
century, was built over an old Arabian fortress. It shows beautiful
elements of Mudejar-style. This town was of great strategical
importance and so a lot of famous battles were fought here.
In the manorial Escalona, hometown of
Infante Don Juan Manuel, there are the ruins of its impressive
Alcazar.
- The Route of Handicraft
Toledo's crafts have been of high reputation since the middle-ages,
not only for the capital's famous swords, but as well for ceramics and
textile products.
The ceramics of Talavera de la Reina
are celebrated in all Spain for their high artistic value and quality.
In the Museum Ruiz de Luna are exposed numerous objects
from 15th to 18th century. But the town has to
offer great monuments as well: Colegiata de Santa Maria la Mayor,
originally built in 1194; the Hermitage Virgen del Prado
of 11th century, with its interior walls covered with
splendid ceramic tiles; the 14th century church
Iglesia de Santiago el Nuevo, a great example of Mudejar-architecture.
Puente del Arzobispo is a small medieval
town, also with important ceramics production.
And finally, passing Oropesa, as well
of medieval ambience and with an impressive castle, you arrive to
Lagartera. The embroideries and laces
from here have been part and parcel of a Lady's wardrobe in the past.
Castilla & León:
good wine,
Castilla y Leon is not only the largest
region of Spain, but as well the largest region of all the European
Union. The elevated plain is limited by the the mountain ranges
Sistema Iberico to the east, Cordillera Central to the south,
Cordillera Cantabrica to the north and by Duero river
towards Portugal.
Castilla y Leon came together in 1983, when the regions of Castilla la
Vieja and Leon were united. Both have been central areas of Spanish
medieval history, and the importance during that epoch is still evident
in many cathedrals, monasteries, castles and fortificated towns, many of
which are preserved in perfect state. Apart of its great monumental
patrimony, Castilla y Leon offers as well natural parks and kilometers
of practically virginal nature, with woods of oaks and cork-oaks.
Gastronomy is distinguished by excellent meat, in particular of lamb,
and vegetables like the famous creamy beans of Avila. Artisany
and popular celebrations show a rich and varied folklore, often of
archaical roots and almost unknown to a wider public.
The Cities:
Salamanca
Salamanca's great historical importance is due to its University, one of
the oldest of Europe. It is a city of outstanding beauty and rich
cultural heritage.
Segovia
Segovia's most famous monument is certainly its colossal Roman
aquaeductus which dominates all the town. Additional attractions
include the Alcazar and the Gothic cathedral.
Avila
A beautiful historic town, entirely enclosed by impressive Romanesque
walls.
Burgos
A monumental town well worth a visit. The famous cathedral,one of the
greatest examples of Gothic style in Spain, is its most outstanding
attraction.
Leon
Formerly the capital of the region, it gave its name to the Community.
The city's most famous monuments are its great Gothic cathedral,
the church Basilica de San Isidoro with valuable Romanesque
frescoes in its crypt, and the San Marcos monastery of
Renaissance period. Close to Leon you may visit the legendary Roman gold
mines Las Medulas.
Zamora
Zamora is a beautiful medieval town with a magnificent cathedral
and several great Romanesque churches. Nearby there are the 8th century
Visigothic church San Pedro de la Nave, and Lago de Sanabria,
the largest lake of Spain and the only one of glacial origins.
Valladolid
The capital of Castilla y Leon has one of the most important sculpture
museums of all Spain, and the famous Easter week processions are of
great touristical interest. The city itself is monumental, and in its
surroundings there are innumerable castles. It is said that in
Valladolid the most correct Castilian Spanish is spoken.
Soria
In Soria, located at Duero river, you should pay special
attention to the magnificent Romanesque churches.
Palencia
Medieval town with outstanding Romanesque monuments. Among the major
attractions are the beautiful cathedral and the interesting
archaeological museum.
Salamanca:
The Golden Town
Salamanca is probably best known for having the oldest university in
Spain and one of the oldest in Europe. This university is still what
gives ambiance to the town. You can see hundreds of students passing
through the streets and enjoying numerous and beautifully decorated bars
until late at night (perhaps you may wonder when they have time to study).
This charming town is untouched in it's architectural purity. In central
areas all recent buildings are constructed in Salamanca's best tradition.
The city has been declared "World Heritage Site" by UNESCO.
It is a very attractive place to visit if you are looking for cultural
values, want to enjoy night life and learn a bit of Spanish.
The surroundings of Salamanca were important already at the times of
Old Romans, who called the region Helmatica. It was
located in the South of the important "Ruta de la Plata", the way
that connected the mines and ports of the North with the South of the
country. Its limits are the high mountain ranges Sierra de Francia
and de Bejar in the South and a granite canyon, Los Arribes,
which forms the frontier between Spain and Portugal, in North-East.
Between the rivers Tormes and Tajo there is the perhaps
most characteristic area, Campo Charro, with wide meadows and oak-woods,
known for bull breeding.
Salamanca is one of those towns which,
although not large in extension, impress any of its visitors. All the
buildings in the center of town, even the new ones, are made of the
stone from Villamayor, which contains a high concentration of iron
making possible very filigree works, and its characteristic golden color
gives strong personality to all the town.
- The Cathedral
- Salamanca's cathedral is a
prototypical example of plateresque style which is so typical
for Spain, marking the transition from Gothic to Renaissance.
Spaniards call this cathedral "La Nueva", the new one, as the
old cathedral still exists at its side.
In its splendid interior pay attention to the "Golden Chapel"
with extraordinary works of sculpture and to the Patio Chico,
the small yard, to be found at the place where "old" and "new"
cathedral are built together.
A narrow street, Calle Calderón, leads you from here to the
University quarter.
- The University Quarter
- The University of
Salamanca is one of the oldest in the world, founded by
King Alphonse IX only a short period of time after the
Universities of Bologna and Paris. The building you can see today
however was built at the time of the catholic kings, and is
considered a masterwork of plateresque style. The façade is
ornamented with numerous figures, the most famous among them the
"frog on a skull", which numerous tourists try to make out - not easy
considering the large number of small figures.
In the University's interior certainly the huge
Library of 160.000 volumes is the
main attraction. Worth visiting is also the staircase with reliefs
showing scenes of bullfighting and the customs of students in old
times who used to write their names at the façade with bulls blood.
In the center of the square in front of the University there is
statue of Fray Luis de Léon, a famous poet and professor who
was persecuted by the inquisition. When after years in prison
he came back to give lessons, his first words were: "As we mentioned
yesterday ..."
In Calle Calderón there is the Unamuno Museum in the
building where this poet and rector had his office.
In the old Universitary Hospital you may visit the beautiful
Renaissance court with its typical salmantinian arcades. The
Old Library is interesting for its impressive fresco-painting "The
Heaven of Salamanca".
Other important buildings in this quarter are the Renaissance palacePalacio
Anaya and the famous Casa de las Conchas,
landmark of the town. The façade of this 15th century house,
which is considered one of the most representative examples of
isabellinian Renaissance style, is ornamented with reliefs of
Saint Jacob's shells.
Another sight is the baroque Jesuit monastery La
Clerecía, of 18th century, with a huge cupola
and an altar covered by gold.
At Plaza del Poeta Iglesias is to be seen the church Iglesia
de San Martin, founded in 12th century, with its
beautiful Romanesque style northern portal. Other parts have been
added lateron in plateresque and baroque styles, respectively.
- Plaza Mayor
- This large square, created in 18th
century by Churriguera, is without doubt among the most
beautiful in Spain. It forms the real center of town, not only
geographically. In the streets around there are many important
monuments, as the church Iglesia de la Purisima and the
Monastery of Saint Ursula in Calle Bordadores, the
Capuchins Church in Calle Ramon y Cajal, the
College of the Archbishop of Fonseca and, at
its side, the Monasterio de los Irlandeses, an outstanding work
of 16th century with a splendid Renaissance court,
created by Berruguete.
- The Monasteries
- Around the cathedral and along Gran
Via there are several monasteries which deserve a visit.
Convento y Museo de las Dueñas is a
plateresque 16th century building with a fantastic
claustrum and beautiful court.
The Convento de San Esteban, also
of 16th century and built by Juan de Alava, with an
altar of Churriguera, is another masterwork of plateresque
style. Churriguera was also the architect of the beautiful
baroque Colegio de Calatrava.
More buildings worth visiting are the Convento de las Claras,
Convento de los Jesuitas and the church Iglesia de Sancti
Spiritus.
- The Statues
- Those statues remind of important
historical or legendary figures, who have determined Salamanca's long
history of high culture.
Let us start with figures of medieval literature as the lovers
Calixto y Melibea, in the "Gardens of the Matchmaker Celestina,
where, as legend tells us, they used to meet in secret.
A statue of Saint Teresa of Avila you will find at the square
called after her, a statue of famous jurist Padre Vitoria face
to face to the Convento de San Esteban where he was living. At
the same square lived, by the way, Christopher Columbus for some time.
He didn't find open ears for his projects in Salamanca, maybe this is
the reason why is monument is not located here but at Plaza de
Colón.
Famous authors who lived in Salamanca were Nebrija, whose
monument you may visit close to the Church of San Marcos,
Gabriel y Galán, at the square called after him and Miguel de
Unamuno, close to the Convento de Santa Ursula.
- More Monuments
- At the end a few more monuments the
visitor to Salamanca should not miss:
El Puente Romano, the Roman bridge over the river Tormes,
one of the best conserved in all Spain. The House Lis, an
outstanding example of the modernist architecture of early 20th
century and the region's most visited museum . And finally the avenue
Gran Via, of unique harmony as all the buildings and the
beautiful arcades are made of the golden stone from Villamayor.
Salamanca:
Excursions
- La Sierra
de Francia
- At the mountain peak
Peña de Franciaof 1.723 meters height, a
very popular destination of excursions, you may enjoy of a great view.
In the green and romantic valleys there are villages like
Las Batuecas, located in a wild-life
preserve where exist still lynxes and some rare mountain-goats. The
Monastery of San José del Monte offers
the opportunity for a peaceful and spiritual stay. By the way you can
sleep there, not for a fixed price but for what you are willing or
able to give.
Nearby you should visit Alberca, one of
the most beautiful villages in Spain and the first that was declared
national Monument, in 1940. The population conserves
interesting customs of pagan tradition.
More places worth to visit are Sequeros,
Mogarraz and
Miranda del Castañar, a very beautiful village. Female
visitors in particular will enjoy a visit at February, 5th.
This day takes place the traditional festivity of "Santa Agueda",
when men have to obey women.
- La Sierra de Bejar
- Bejar,
formerly well-known for its textile production, was of importance
specially at the times of Moors and Renaissance. Its bullring,
Plaza de Toros, is among the oldest of Spain. More sights are
are the Ducal Palace of 17th century and the
remains of the Moorish fortifications.
Candelario is picturesque with its
stone houses and impressively inclines streets. The sausages ("Chorizo")
produced here are of high reputation.
- Along the river Duero
- The most interesting town in this
region located along the river Duero is
Alba de Tormes, a place of pilgrimage conserving several
relics of Saint Teresa. The Saint's body is in the
Convento de las Carmelitas. Other interesting buildings are
the 12th century Church of San Juan, several
Mudejar-style churches, a medieval bridge and the tower resting
of the Duke of Alba's castle.
- El Campo Charro
- Ciudad Rodrigo,
located 86 km from Salamanca, is a medieval town enclosed by walls. It
is the most interesting place in this region, with its Romanesque
Cathedral, its Town-Hall of 15th
and 16th century, the Gothic house Casa de los
Aguilas, and several palaces: Castillo de Enrique II,
Palacio de Moctezuma, Palacio de los Castro
and Palacio del Principe.
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